Correspondent cuisine: the great Good Friday aioli… and its crunchy foods from Geneviève Grassaud in Capendu


All year round, they provide information on the life of their village. Today they deliver their favorite recipe

Geneviève Grassaud cooks in her image : with passion, generosity and curiosity. She chose to present her grand aioli, a dish that resembles her : “ This dish, I know it since my childhood. My grandmother and my mother already did! It’s a long tradition in my Provençal family. On Good Friday, fish day par excellence in Provence, we eat the great aioli. A tradition that I continue to keep alive here in Occitania and to which I have converted my husband’s brothers and sisters, since we meet at my house every Good Friday. It is a dish of sharing and conviviality “.

Geneviève was born in Lorraine, from a Lorraine father and a Provençal mother. She lived her early childhood in Morocco. When she was 8 years old, her family moved to Provence. It was there that she met Yves, her husband. Falling in love with the city of Carcassonne, Geneviève decides to raise their two sons in Aude, where her husband is from. “ Provençal culture is an identity that sticks to the skin, it surpasses all the others. In Provence, we live for each other. The Occitan culture is less expansive, even if the reception is the same, that of the South. But it’s not quite the same “. Geneviève has been a correspondent for Capendu and Comigne since 1982. She remembers her first year of correspondence “ It was surreal. In the same year there were three corpses in my area : a sordid case of witchcraft with theft of a body in the cemetery, a pimp found dead ‘fell” into his well, and a child hanged by his mother “. What she likes above all is to write portraits of women. “ To be a correspondent, you have to be curious, take an interest in everything and find out why. “, she explains.

Since she retired (she was an accountant), Geneviève has been secretary of the local photo club Objectif image in Aude. If his anchor point for the kitchen like the rest remains Provence, his family “ Rainbow “goes from the West Indies to Quebec, via India, Japan, China, Kabylia, and its cuisine too. Its aioli is the last dish of winter, the first of spring. “ In Provence, we mark the seasons. And we find ourselves together around this dish which is substantial. And then, in Provence, garlic is everywhere “.

And inevitably, with this friendliness that sticks to her skin, Geneviève offers us two recipes at once.

The recipes

Fish : thick salted cod steaks : 200 to 250 g/person (base of the dish).

Optional: prawns, whelks.

Rinse the cod well under running water to remove the coarse salt and put it to desalinate for at least 12 hours. Poach the cod by placing it in a wide-bottomed saucepan, cover it with water and bring to the boil over low heat. When the water boils, turn off the heat and poach for 10 minutes. Reserve the cod on a platter and let cool. Cook whelks and prawns in a flavored bouillon.

Raw vegetables: tomatoes, radishes, cauliflower, button mushrooms. Cooked vegetables: carrots, turnips, potatoes, asparagus…

The aioli: 6 peeled cloves of garlic, 1 pinch of salt, 1 pinch of pepper, 1 to 2 egg yolks, ½ lemon (the juice), olive oil, 1 teaspoon of mustard. Put the egg yolks in a bowl, crushed garlic grains (without the germ), (you can add a teaspoon of mustard). Beat with an electric mixer.

2 egg whites (any remaining from the aioli), 230 g granulated sugar, 50 g flour, 125 g slivered almonds. Preheat the oven to 200°.

Make a fountain with the flour and sugar and add the egg whites (unbeaten), mix and finally add the slivered almonds.

Place baking paper on the baking sheet. Using a small spoon, make small heaps of dough.

Bake until crisps are lightly browned (15 to 20 minutes). Wait until they are very cold to unmold.

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